Saturday, 19 January 2013

USHANKA

My ushanka, ordered hurriedly from Amazon when the snow threatened, came this morning.  Arriving early,  the stalwart postman braving the ice had the kindness to hide the parcel in a green garden refuse bag under the table at the side of the house and scrawl a note to that effect on an envelope pushed through the door.  How thoughtful!  Our postmen and women struggling through all manner of weather burdened down by pound upon pound of junk mail, are really quite noble.  Postal spam is a wicked burden on them and us and I'm sure if the Government promised to abolish it it could count on at least five thousand extra votes in every constituency.

So there I have it and you can see it above.  The ushanka - a cold weather hat like a tea cosy with flaps that let down to cover the ears if required -  is a fetching shade of grey, and supposedly the authentic Soviet army model.  It is gunmetal grey and made, I think, from felt with a cotton lining. The outside isn't fur but has a thick carpet-like pile. Anyhow I can vouch for its warmth.  The ushanka even came complete with a  fetching detachable Soviet cap badge in gold and red, the hammer and sickle emblem surrounded by gilded leaves and securely attached by means of two long brass pins.  I have to say that I think it looks very pretty.

I was even in two minds about leaving it on but then I thought it would be asking just too much from my friends and neighbours who must think me eccentric enough as it is. So reluctantly the cap badge has gone; though it can no doubt be easily re-instated if ever there is a need.  Inside on the lining of the ushanka is printed a cartoon of a rabbit and some words in Cyrillic script and the figures 89 - which may well refer to the year of Soviet era manufacture. My ushanka may therefore be already 24 years old, though if so it has been stored well against the day when I might need it.

Also printed is the size, ‘60,’ which refers to the circumference of the head.  I find this slightly too large: the ushanka keeps falling forward, slowly tilting forward over my eyes, but a little padding will remedy that easily.  By my calculation someone whose head is 60 centimetres in circumference has a brain 10 per cent larger than someone whose head is only 58 centimetres in circumference and yet heads apparently range from 54 to 65 centimetres without noticeable effect on the intelligence.  In any case if your brain is too big you become, I understand, an idiot, which perhaps explains why cows and elephants are not the Einstein’s of the animal kingdom. They have large brains but don’t do much with them, except for never forgetting an injury.  Crows, on the other hand, could probably pass the eleven plus, and they have to make do with something the size of a large pea.

I wish my ushanka had arrived yesterday which was Day One of the Great Whiteout.  In fact we only had about three or four inches of snow but it is quite remarkable what changes even a little snowfall like that can bring. On the roads, even with the much reduced traffic, the pristine whiteness soon turns to slush - a grey, gunmetal at first and then for some reason it turns to a warm brown.  I have never understood why.  But out in the countryside the snow remains deep and crisp and even.  And pure white of course.  Yesterday I went for a walk in the gathering gloom of the afternoon and marvelled at the transformation: tranquillity and calm  everywhere descended.  There was a wind blowing and it had again started to snow;  moreover, the snow was lying as the thermometer had again fallen below zero.  Sliding occasionally on the ice, with the snow in my face, battling up the hill,  I felt like Scott on his way to the South Pole, but it was an exhilarating and elemental feeling and when I returned home tired and exhausted I drank a vodka to warm me up.

Vodka? Ushankas? I feel Boraya is turning me into a species of Russian. Perhaps because I have returned to the novel after a deliberate step back and layoff over Christmas and New Year.  First, reading the book, then reworking in my mind all its little connections and consequences and now, at last, putting fingers to keyboard. The country dacha in which Elizabeth and Vladimir begin their romance now has a name - the Casa Malinka - and a provenance in the shape of a Calalan architect.     Its ‘distinctive characteristic, the one that remains forever in your mind, is the external decoration.  It is painted extravagantly in broad vertical curving bands, alternately pink and blue,  and those swirls of colour even in winter bring the warm sunshine of Barcelona to the Gulf of Finland.’  

I have these swirls of colour in my mind - can’t get them out of my mind - have I seen them somewhere?  A photograph, perhaps? Or have I imagined them?  Anyway, unless or until she repaints,  (which she won't do while I am writing the novel) Elizabeth is stuck with them.  ‘Poka.’ 

8 comments:

Frances said...

The ushanka that has now become yours has an excellent design, with or without the pin. Isn't it funny to have a snowfall accompany the ushanka delivery?

Will we see a photo of you in the ushanka in the next snow fall?

The lining fabric's rabbit is an amusing touch. Was it made in Year of the Rabbit according to the Lunar Calendar?

Many questions are raised.

Good to hear of the Boraya progress.

xo

Pondside said...

The Great Dane still has his grey Persian lamb Astrakhan hat from his days at the Royal Military College. It has a flap of beautiful red wool over the top, to which is affixed the college crest. Our DIL, who is in the RCAF, has been posted to Alberta, and as part of her kit, has been issued a fur hat of much the same shape as yours. It looks very funny on top of her 5' nothing frame!

bayou said...

How bizarre that you don't call it a shapka? This is the name, I was told, the anglophones, call it. But very well chosen and so useful, keeps the ears really warm! EG has several of those brought back from Russia together with the odd bottle(s) of vodka. I had to laugh about the theory of the brain circumferences, though :-))))

Fennie said...

Frances - assuming the ushanka was made in 1989, no, this wasn't the year of the rabbit. I presume the rabbit is some sort of manufacturer's trade mark. Actually it arrived on the second day of the Great Snow but it is most useful. The weather is continental.

I have an astrakhan hat too Pondside, given to me by a dear Indian friend for whose great head the hat was probably too small. It is even a little small for me, riding up and up until the side close and it falls off my head. It could do with a chinstrap.

I hadn't heard the word shapka, Bayrou. But now I have, though I prefer ushanka, which reminds me of a steam engine.

Vagabonde said...

I like your chapeau – it came at an opportune moment, what with the snow and cold.
I bought a black Russian fur hat once when I was in Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and wore it at the large Atlanta market once when it was very cold. A shady character kept following me, and finally he came in front of me and said “Вы говорите России” - it sounds like vi gavaritie ruski which means do you speak Russian. So I said “Я не делаю прости” which means I don’t speak it, sorry. He looked at me and shrugged – I guess he heard my French accent…

Chris Stovell said...

Oh, put the badge on Fennie - just go for it!

Jocelyn said...

I ended up here rather randomly, but I'm very glad I did. If you can get properly excited about a ushanka (and, um, teach me that word), then you're my kind of person.

And I'm sure your brain is exactly the right size, neither too small nor too big. That sliding forward of the ushanka is assurance of your perfect intellect.

CAMILLA said...

Looks a fabulous hat the Ushanka, Fennie. Definately cold enough weather to be sporting it at the moment with all the snow we have had lately. Put on the badge Fennie, would love to see a pic of you in the hat.!